East Javanese house and its traditional weapon - clurit (and traditional clothes of the island of Madura)
In Indonesia which consists of some ethnic groups, every ethnic group has its own characteristics in clothing. For Madurese people, especially those living in Sumenep, the type of dresses is distinguished as follows:
1. Daily dress
2. Ceremonial dress
3. Common people’s dress
4. Elite people’s dress
5. Nobleman’s dress
Dress for Common People
For men the dress called peso with black colour. The pants also black colour and loose below the knee. This dress is fit out with a leather belt on which there is a pocket.
The Madurese call it “Sabbu tepa kole” and a Lead-clothe or “odeng”. Besides as a supplement, a “sarong” also worn crossways over the shoulder.
The women wear a dress called “baju sono” or “baju kurung”,
”sarung poleng” which is green or red varied with conspicuous colours. Wearing a belt called “sivet” and a long shawl called “sarong bini” worn crossways over the left or right shoulder.
As the supplement of the daily dress, man as well as woman wear “gamparan” (slippers made of wood).
Ceremonial dress worn by men consists of “baju pesa”, “celana kombor” (loose pant), “odeng”, “selempang sarung” and “sabbu kale tepa”. This dress is fit out with a grandeur weapon such as “taka buwan” namely grass knife, big and long grass knife.
The women wear “baju sono” which is the same like worn daily, but the ceremonies dress is better than that worn daily.
Daily Dress for Parjaji
Daily dress which is worn by men is “baju taqwa” which looks like “surjan” with white buttons. This dress is fir out with “sarung Polekat” with a belt called “epek/stagen” to slip a creese and a head clothe called “odeng peredan.
The women wear a black “baju sono”. At the end of the long sleeves there are buttons made of silver, sarong with purer Madurese batik motive decorated of animals, leaves print and “stagen”.
Ceremonial Dress for parjaji
The men wear white “baju taqwa” with buttons made of silver or gold “adeng peredan”, long batik clothe not pleated. If the clothe is pleated then its pleats are wide and aslant.
There is prohibition for parjaji to wear clothe with a motive of “parang rusak”. Whereas the women wear baju sono. The clothe worn is “songket” long clothe and wearing “epek” or belt made of soft clothe. In former times, a parjaji either a man or a woman, was always accompanied by five servants when attending a party. The foremost one, carried a lamp or torch, those in the rear carried a container called “ekecohan” and grandeur umbrella.
Dress of Noblemen
The dress of a noblemen is almost similar with that worn by parjaji. The difference lies only in its supplements.
The man wears “ellogan”, namely belt wrapped in soft clothe to slip a creese. The colour of the “epek” is red or yellow and wear “odeng tongkosan” (tongkosan head clothe).The women also wear a dress which is worn by women of parjaji group.
If a nobleman attends a ceremony, he wears a black coat made of liken clothe embroidered with gold, a long clothe, wearing beautiful creese chained with melati flower. Head clothe worn is “odeng Sunda”.
Young nobleman wears “baju taqwa” when attending a ceremony; whereas the woman wear “baju sono” like that worn by the parjaji group. The noble women wear “sono” dress made of red velvet, dark blue or dark green, with long sleeves at the end of which there are six gold buttons. The dress worn has gold pin and belt or “epek” made of soft clothe. A clothe with a motive of “sidomukti” pleated in Madura style. A gold bracelet is worn on the ankle.
There are three traditional bride gowns, worn one after another for three days. Bride gowns for parjaji and arja group are as follows:
-The first night, is “dilega” dress. The bridegroom does not wear a shirt whereas the bride wears a “kemben” a (clothe worn around the chest). This dress is attached with decoration worn on a neck, fingers and arms.
-The second night is the “kraton kepotren” dress. The bridegroom wears a black coat with lace, black “liken” made of pants; whereas the bride wears long black “kebaya” with velvet laces full with its decorations.
-The third night, either the bride or bridegroom wears a dress to attend a common ceremony (“taqwa” dress and “sono” dress).
Bride Gown for Common People
As the wedding ceremony of “parjaji” and noblemen is carried out three days, the wedding ceremony of common people is carried out only one day, but the bride gown changed three times.
On the first meeting, the bridegroom wears white “jubah” (tabard) in Arab style, the bride wears long white skirt complere with the head clothe.
On the second meeting, the bridegroom wears a black coat with a necktie, wearing a “sidomukti” clothe and “belangkon” head clothe typically Madurese, decorated with a creese on his back. And the bride wears a long “sidomukti” clothe and “kebaya”.
On the third or the last meeting, the bridegroom wears pants, a coat, a necktie and a head clothe. Whereas the bride wears a long skirt or long cloth and “kebaya”.